Your Questions
Click here to submit a question.
Ask an Arborist
Pruning Birch Tree from Jean and Ron on October 22
Q: Can you please tell us the best time to have our birch tree pruned? The branches are hanging over both our driveways & the house. Would like to get it pruned this fall if it is advisable.
Also, do you recommend any pruners?
Thank you,
Jean and Ron
A: It’s fine to prune now, if the branches are hanging it’s best to prune with the leaves on to see them loaded. Pruning can be done virtually any time of the year.
Los Verdes Arborists are partners of the Truckee Meadows Community Forestry Coalition and can be reached at 232-8243.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
Pruning Pine Trees from Donna on September 11
Q: We have several varieties of pine trees on our backyard slopped hill. They are approximately 20-25 years old, and are in need of major trimming. Do you have someone you could recommend to us for this? We are on limited income as seniors, so cannot afford too much, but do realize this work needs to be done. I so appreciate any assistance and advice you can give me.
Donna
A: We always recommend hiring an ISA Certified Arborist, and get at least three bids. Click here to search for a certified arborist. Be sure to give them specific information on what needs to be done and double check that your arborist is insured.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC and
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
Dead Tree from Scott on September 9
Q: Attached is a picture of a tree in my backyard that has pretty much died. Besides some new growth in the middle of the tree for the most part this tree did not come back from this past winter. Do you have any suggestions on what I should do for this tree?
A1: This tree should be removed, it’s far too gone to bring back.
If you plan to replace it, move the new tree away from the fence and supply some type of reliable irrigation. See our website for tips on setting up a drip system and see our list of trees recommended for our area.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
A2: It’s definitely dead and should be removed. However, the sucker along the fence looks like they are coming from a Tree of Heaven from the other side of the fence, you can see its parents. The tree was hard to ID for me. I thought it look more like a Cherry tree that has been abused. Regardless its firewood now.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
Weeping Pine Trees from Kim on August 25
Q: We have pine trees in our yard that are weeping sap for the truck and the branches.
The house was a foreclosure and we believe the did not have water for a period of time -then had water every day 3 times for an hour.
The sap is quite extensive. What can we do to help the trees recover from whatever is stressing them – and can we expect the sap the reduce of we take the right steps to help them. The trees look like Austrian pine and could be at least 16 years old. They are dropping needles but still developing pine cones. We do not see new growth.
Thank you for your guidance.
A: Borers have infested the tree, as it was stressed from a lack of water. First, set a soaker hose at the drip line of the trees (near the edge of the canopy). If you have a drip system there should be four two-gallon per hour emitters running for one hour three times a week. If not, let the soaker hose run for six hour or so three times a week. It will release water slowly and ensure a deep watering. Bayer produces a product called “tree and shrub control” with Merit that you can apply to the ground to be soaked up by the tree.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
Nectarine Tree from Charlotte on August 21
Q: Our 14 year old nectarine tree was about 10′ high and a year old when we moved in to 1st and O St. It grew to give great shade and then fruit for jam or freezer some years. This year it went “bananas” and loaded up all of its branches with fruit. I fear me should have picked some off as we now have overproduction of smaller fruit all competing for nutrients. We have already sawed off a couple of limbs that fractured under the weight. As you can see from the photos, our poor tree is still coming apart with broken branches and limbs. We don’t know if any of the fruit will mature and are wondering if we pick some now, will it finish ripening off the tree? What can we do to alleviate the strain on this prolific tree? We have put boards and braces on the branches but to not much avail. If we can’t get fruit this year, we’d still like to save this wonderful tree. Help! Please!
A: Yes, thining the fuit now would help (though for best results next year, thin early on)…simply put your hand up next to an existing fruit…if there is another within a fists size of the fruit you have your fist next to, you remove it. The fruit that is left will get bigger and sweeter. Many people have to use boards to prop up branches as they load. As long as you put a piece of carpet or some padding where the prop hits the branch this is good.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
Tree Suggestions from Margie on August 17
Q: We are in need of some suggestions for types of trees to plant in our back yard. The trees have been great for privacy and shade. We have a small yard with a beautiful paver patio. The previous owner planted two aspen trees right next to this patio. They are close together and have grown quite large (35 ft.). Their roots stayed near the surface and have spread out into the lawn area, ruining the small lawn and are starting to undermine the patio. We will be removing the two aspen and need two trees with root systems that go straight down, not spread out and also need something that is bushy enough to provide privacy. We live in the Reno area. Thank you for any suggestions in advance. Sincerely, Margie
A: Take a look at Sweetgum – these are not taprooted (most trees lose their taproots early on), but have the deepest roots I’ve seen. Also, whatever tree you plant, be sure to use a deep root feeder to encourage downward growth of the roots.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
Oozing Mesquite Tree in Las Vegas from Denise on August 13
Q: I have a Mesquite tree that is oozing an amber colored sap from various spots all over the tree. There is no obvious hole or wound from the spot of excretion.
A: Normally the holes these borers create is too small to see … the sap is a sign of borers. Try giving it more water.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
Falling Sycamore Leaves from Marlene on August 16
Q: I have 6-7 mature Sycamore trees on the side of my house. They are in common space. The trees have been dropping leaves, like it’s fall, for about a week now. The trees are not watered regularly. Is it normal for the trees to drop leaves so early ?
A: If the tree is not watered regularly and depending on where trees are grown, I know here in the Great Basin trees will drop their leaves if water is not given to them regularly , especially during hot days or weeks. Water around the drip line of the tree and beyond, the trees just may be water stressed. If nothing else has happened to the root system, say construction around roots, it may be just water stress.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
Oak Trees in New Jersey from Alysia on August 16
Q: I have attached a few pictures of my oak tree and the browning leaves. Over the past few months, sections of the tree are turning brown. Any idea what this could be? The tree is enormous, and I would hate to lose it. We live in NJ and have never had the leaves turn brown in the Spring and Summer. Any information would be appreciated!
A: Not being from Jersey but knowing it has been hot back east, this may be drought stress? Reviewing the photo many of the leave that are turning brown are occurring on the inside of the branches. This may be a drought avoidance mechanism by the plant. Plants respond to drought stress by loosing inner leaves to reduce water demand and survive a drought.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
Birch Trees from Nanette on August 8
Q: Enclosed is a picture of a tall birch tree on my property. I have several on my property and they are all tall trees (approximately 15 feet high) with white, flaky paper-like bark. The trees are in “clusters.” One cluster faces west (all day sun) with lots of growth, another cluster is in an area that is primarily shaded (less growth and leaves) and then this cluster in the front of my house faces south east (picture enclosed). This southeast cluster appears healthy on the bottom (lots of new growth), but toward the top is leafless. The tree next to it has no leaves. Should I cut the tree on the part that does not have growth? Will that “spur” growth to the tree? Will cutting it damage the tree from growing taller? If you recommend cutting the tree, what time of year should I cut it? All the other clusters have some form of this intermittent growth (bare near the top of the tall tree), but this one appears to the most problematic.
A: This may be a water issue which could also have the Bronze Birch borer. The top is dead in any regards and this is where topping would be okay. However the tree will take a long to time to recover. Planting birch (European White Birch) in our area should only be planted where it gets shade, protection from direct SW exposure and daily watering or every other day watering for it to survive.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
Oak Tree Roots from Barb on July 2
Q: I would like to put a concrete patio in my yard. There are a couple large oak trees near the patio area. Would I be cutting off the trees’ water supply by covering the ground with concrete? the concrete would be about four feet out from the trunk of the tree.
A: Depending if the concrete patio installation which needs to be determine first we need to know if it will go all they way around the tree and also if its an established tree, 10 to 25 year old tree and the status of the tree, health and vigor. If roots are disturb or removed all the way around an established tree even 4 feet away that may even kill it. The excavation will probably do more damage than anything and it may take a season for signs of stress to show up or depending on the severity of the excavation, it may show signs quickly within a few weeks or so. Also cutting or removing roots which I assume will happen, will compromise the structure and integrity of the tree if they are removed all the away around. The general rule for removing roots is no more that 25 percent.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
Failing Oak Tree from Larry on June 8
Q: The oak tree in our front yard leafed out, but is now, particularly after the windstorm last Monday, three quarters bare. The remaining leaves are curled under. What can be done?
A: If it an established tree, “weed and feed” lawn fertilizer applied nearby would explain the curled leaves. Apply water under the drip line of the canopy of tree and further out three times a week. Water to depth of 4 to 6 inches. Apply 3 to 5 times a week making certain not to over water, but you’re trying to leach the “weed and feed” product past the root zone, without over-watering. which can be tricky. You will also want to test soil. It important to keep the soil moist to a dept of 2 inches. Also if the tree is in a lawn, make certain they are not killing it by girdling the tree with a string trimmer. The tree may also the damage may have occurred due to the dry winter. Many trees at the Arboretum died, mainly maples and we did lose an oak. That could be a possibility be the problem as well.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
Birch Trees from Mary on May 29
Q: One of my birch trees is dead and the one next to it is compromised. Not sure what is going on. Here are some pictures.
A1: This is Bronze Birch Borer…Norris pest control can inject these trees to control the bug. However, we need to address the overall health of the tree to effect a cure. Birch is a water-lover and needs 4ea 2 gallon per hour emitters set at the drip line of the tree and should run for at least one hour three times a week.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
A2: It appears the holes are caused from sap suckers. Depending on where the tree is located, bronze birch bores could have infested the tree first. One other thing that would cause the tree to decline especially birch trees is the lack of water. If the irrigation was changed especially over the past 10 years, bronze birch bores will attack the stressed tree. Another thing to check is weed eater damage. If the tree’s bark at the base has been damage by weed eaters or even lawn mowers, this will cause a slow decline. Other things to check if the tree is in a lawn area, are weed and feed products used?. If they have been used repeatedly then the tree will slowly die. Not knowing where the tree is located makes it difficult to diagnose. If you could get the location of tree that would help us with our diagnosis. Birch trees also can have a tough time when they are topped. Topping may have occurred to this tree to remove the dead wood, not sure.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
Deep Tree Wound from Bob on April 25
Q: How do I treat a maple tree with a deep wound? The wound has existed for several years. The appears healthy otherwise. I’m told it began with sun scald. The wound is deep into the trunk. When it rains, water pools inside the wound and I fear this leads to decay. It would seem like filling the hole with something strong would provide support from the inside, but everyone says I should not do it. The wound does not appear to be closing at all. Would it not make sense to fill the hole, keep it dry an bug free and hope the bark closes in around it? Otherwise, it seems the hole will deteriorate further until the tree weakens and breaks.
Please forgive the black I put on it. It was sold to me, but from what I have learned it is not recommended that I use it. I thought it would protect the would from bugs and rot. Thanks.
A1: I would allow the wound to callus over and wouldn’t recommend applying any more tree seal, as diseases can actually grow underneath the seal. Given the extent of the wound it may take years before this closure is complete, but it could be sooner.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
Jeffrey Pine Roots from Jackie on May 23
Q: I have forty year old Jeffreys that were planted too close to the house. One of them is now lifting the driveway slab that lays on top of it. Another has roots in the way of a sidewalk we want to install.
The concrete men tell me that the roots will have to be cut. Will cutting these surface roots damage the trees? How should I treat the cut surfaces which will be covered with gravel base and concrete?
The trees are really very healthy, well established and lovely.
A: You can cut cut roots for concrete, only up to 25 percent. There is a product known as Biobarrier that can be installed to keep roots from breaking concrete in the future. I would not recommend applying sprays, pastes or dressings to the wounds, they will heal on their own naturally.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
Tea Olive Tree from Kim on May 7
Q: Good Morning,
Approximately 2 weeks ago we had our yard landscaped. A tea olive was planted and at this time it looked like it was already suffering from stress. A lot of the leaves were gone. The tree roots had a burlap bag around them and metal wire. I cannot remember when the landscapers were planting if the wire around the roots had been removed, but I do know they planted the tree with the burlap bag still intact. I asked about this and their response was “we do this all the time”.
We do have mulch around the tree and are very careful about not overwatering but making sure the soil is moist and not mushy.
Everyday more and more leaves are falling off this tree. I’m beginning to wonder if the landscaper had planted this tree correctly.
I do have a guarantee and it looks like if things don’t improve I will be calling them.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
A1: I would ask about the soil type first and irrigation schedule second. Tree should irrigated daily for establishment. Since this tree is zoned for USDA 7-9 Osmanthus fragrans, Olive Tea Tree, I don’t believe this is a local question. As always it is recommended that burlap be removed and wire basket. The burlap for this tree and area many not be an issue if it’s in a humid environment, unlike ours, but it is still recommended to remove both. I would also check the drainage and planting hole. Ask if the soil is wet, meaning sopping wet below 6 inches and if the tree is sitting in water, like they said mushy, that will make a tree wilt. Also the planting depth and size of hole is also important. The hole should be at least 3 times as wide as the root ball and the tree root flare should be at grade or a little higher if planted in clay soil. If organic amendments were added ask if it was mixed into excavated soil when backfilled, and how much. Should only use 25% or less. If all this checks out then, I suspect the rootball may have been damage or tree was in poor condition when it went in. I would also check with your local Cooperative Extension (CE) office and have them call them. CE’s are affiliated with Land Grant Universities.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
Dying Pine Tree from David on April 27
Q: I just bought my house and the pine tree looks dead. It has some green at the ends of the branches and some are easy to break off. I put miracle grow in it and have been watering it for a couple of days now. Should keep watering the tree? I thought it was from no water or am I just wasting my time? Someone told me to cut the dead branches off. Any suggestions on what more I can do to try to save the tree? Your input would be great thank you.
A: From the photograph I would say the tree is dead. Normally we call it dead if 50 percent or more is gone…in this case we are way over half dead. A tree that size and that dead should be relatively easy to cut down and the roots will be easy to dig up as well.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
Deep Tree Wound from Bob on April 25
Q: How do I treat a maple tree with a deep wound? The wound has existed for several years. The appears healthy otherwise. I’m told it began with sun scald. The wound is deep into the trunk. When it rains, water pools inside the wound and I fear this leads to decay. It would seem like filling the hole with something strong would provide support from the inside, but everyone says I should not do it. The wound does not appear to be closing at all. Would it not make sense to fill the hole, keep it dry an bug free and hope the bark closes in around it? Otherwise, it seems the hole will deteriorate further until the tree weakens and breaks.
Please forgive the black I put on it. It was sold to me, but from what I have learned it is not recommended that I use it. I thought it would protect the would from bugs and rot. Thanks.
A1: I would allow the wound to callus over and wouldn’t recommend applying any more tree seal, as diseases can actually grow underneath the seal. Given the extent of the wound it may take years before this closure is complete, but it could be sooner.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
Fish Planting from Kate on March 22
Q: Does placing a fish under a tree when planting it help with growth?
A1:Good question and a practice used by pioneers. Native American taught the pilgrims to do that. Fish itself is a source of nutrients for the tree as it rots and as the tree roots grow. The only problem is, if you have dogs or cats they might want to dig it up. You can achieve the same result using raw kitchen scraps. Don’t use dressed salads with oil, only and raw veggies, not cooked, not meat or products with fat either.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
A2: Yes planting a fish with the tree is great! However, be sure the fish is not actually touching the new roots, as it will burn them. Also, it would be best to cut the fish into sections, say at north, south, east and west.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
Damaged Juniper Shrubs from Rick on February 23
Q: I own a property in Silver Springs that is tenant occupied. I planted several juniper shrubs about 3 years ago and they have been doing fine. I last saw them in July 2011. I recently visited the property and they are dying from the bottom. See photos attached. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
A1: Wow not sure but it could be herbicide damage or some other mechanical damage. Insect damage would be sporadic. Notice the same height of the damage. Was the area sprayed with an herbicide?
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
A2: The uniform line of dead material sure looks like some sort of spray damage. I would think of animal damage (rabbits) but you see needles on the ground. If it were watering, the other plants should show it. It could perhaps be a blockage in the drip (check the last live plant). Or if this line of trees is on its’ own valve, it could be a bad valve or wire.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Lawrence on January 7
Q: We bought an 30+ year old house in Reno that is full of old, grown trees (see photo) and now I am trying to water them. It appears that someone who lived here before landscaped the back yard and every where they wanted rock, they put down a very heavy blanket of material with a black rubber type coating on top. As the trees have grown, the coating is growing up their trunks, since the people who did it put this rubber blanket right up to the tree. How do I water them? Would the root feeder handle this? I have been putting the hose up next to the base of the tree to try and water under this blanket. Now that I’ve really looked around, I don’t know how these trees have survived all these years. If the root feeder is the answer, where would I buy one? And how long should I water each tree? Any advice would be very much appreciated. Thank you.
A1: For the long-term health of the trees, I suggest removing the rock and plastic and replacing the it with a three to six inch layer of organic mulch and not plastic or even landscape cloth. If you don’t want to or can’t do this right away, then the next best option is to punch holes in the plastic and water underneath plastic on the drip line at several holes “around” the area not just one, not at the base and. This is not the best option but it will work. But for the long term health and vigor of the trees the first option is the best. Keeping plastic over the root system promotes shallow roots since most of the water rise to the surface and just under the plastic, condensation. Putting the hose next to the base of the tree is not where the feeder roots are. Again they need to get water under the drip line. Hope this helps!
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
A2: The rubberized material should be removed to at least the drip line of all the trees (near the edge of the canopies). Until you can do this and relocate the drip emitters to the drip line as well, the Ross root feeder will be the best bet. The Garden Shop Nursery carries them. Use the feeder as shown in the directions that come with it, but in your case leave it in for two minutes or so at each hole, doing this several times at the drip line all around the tree. Click here for more information on Deep Root Feeding.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Karen on January 3
Q: I have heard chipped evergreens are not good for mulch…is this correct?
A: Chipped evergreens contain a lot of acid from the green parts. However, if allowed to age some and if kept moist during the aging process (a few months) this will leach out. This is great stuff for under other evergreens, or to keep weeds down in areas that are undeveloped. I would avoid placing fresh evergreen chippings under deciduous trees and shrubs.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Daniel on December 9
Q: This tree is growing in my yard, we just moved into a new house. It is approximately 30-40 feet tall. No leaves on it this time of year. It has small yellow/orange pears on it and it is December 8 in Pittsburgh, Pa. I have included pics of the pears and a branch.
A: Looks like a Bosc Pear, but I would recommend taking over some branches and pears to your local University Cooperative Extension office for a positive ID.
Pittsburg also has an urban forestry program as well as an online tree care resource that may provide some insight.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
From Jen on December 6
Q: I work for a company called Sportif USA in Sparks. We would like to purchase a living Christmas tree to decorate our office during the holiday season. After the holidays, we will be donating it to the City of Spark to plant in Rock Park across the street. We would like to make sure the tree stays healthy while in our care. Do you have any advice as to how we should care for the tree while we have it? Can it be brought directly indoors from the nursery or should we acclimate it slowly? Thanks in advance for any advice.
A: Here are some steps for keeping your living Christmas tree healthy:
- Gradually introduce your living tree from outside to inside over three or four days via the garage or enclosed porch. A tree that is dormant and exposed to immediate warmth will start to grow. You want to avoid any quick resumption of growth.
- While the tree is introduced into the house via porch or garage, check for critters and insect egg masses as the tree acclimatizes.
- Visit your nearest lawn and garden supply store. Purchase a spray with an anti-dessicant or anti-wilt product to minimize needle loss (do this during the introduction phase). This particular product will not only reduce needle loss, it will contain the loss of valuable moisture lost to a climate controlled home.
- If possible, locate your tree in the coolest part of the room and away from heating ducts. This will work with the anti-wilt product to keep the tree moist and prevent the loss of valuable moisture.
- Place the tree in a large galvanized tub including root ball. This tub stabilizes the tree and ball (or pot) and confines water and needles into a more manageable and cleanable space.
- Stabilize the tree in the tub in a straight and vertical position using rocks or bricks. Water only in the tree’s container if not a balled-in-burlap tree.
- If balled-in-burlap, fill empty space around and on top of the ball with mulch to retain as much moisture as possible. Then water your tree as often as necessary to moisten the roots but not soggy.
- Leave inside no longer than 7-10 days (some experts suggest only 4 days). Never add nutrients or fertilizers as that may initiate growth which you don’t want to occur in a dormant tree.
- Carefully introduce tree back outside using the reverse procedure and plant as instructed in the How to Plant a Tree feature. If you live in a climate where soils freeze, you should have prepared a planting hole during moderate temperatures.
Additional tips:
- You can skip the galvanized tub and stabilization steps if the tree comes packed in a plastic bucket. Remember to protect floor and carpet from water by using a pan.
- Anti-dessicants and anti-wilt products are sold under the names of Wilt Pruf or Cloud Cover
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
From John on December 1
Q: We have a large full grown pine tree (40 feet tall) that is planted near the top of a slope. The county is now removing the wall in the picture and leveling the slope with 2 feet of dirt on the bottom half of the area. The top half will get about very little extra dirt. The tree is near the top of the slope. Will the tree survive?
A: Any time you raise the grade over the root system of a tree you cause damage. The reduction in available air and water usually results in extensive die-back if not death. Also, as close to the wall as the tree is, I would suspect a great deal of damage to the roots as they complete construction. There are ways to preserve the tree, as with a tree well ( a circular wall )or vertical mulching (pipes installed to provide air/water) but I would like to take a closer look to be sure.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From John on November 21
Q: We had an apple tree, which we were told had fire blight, cut down and turned into wood chips along with a larch and a redbud. The pile has been sitting over last winter and we want to know if there is any risk in using the chipped wood (some containing the apple tree) for mulch with new fruit trees we want to plant in the spring. Can fire blight survive in a wood chip pile over two winters? Your advice is greatly appreciated.
A: The common tactic when removing trees with fire-blight is to destroy the material and dispose of it. I just don’t think it’s worth the risk when good mulch is always available at nurseries.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Levi on October 13
Q: I have two 3-year old Lagacy Maple trees in my south-facing front yard. One is thriving but the other is struggling. In the two years they’ve been planted, one has almost doubled in size while the other has barely grown at all. The leaves are browning around the edges so I know the tree is stressed. It gets more water then the other tree (which is about 15-20 feet away) to the point that I worry about over-watering. To this point I haven’t noticed any fungas. To potentially add to the problem, the dead branches were removed last fall (which was about half the tree) including the leader. Does pruning the leader prevent the tree from growing correctly? Also, I’ve started to notice the lawn around this tree is also getting stressed, which makes wonder if I have an overall soil issue and that the tree is doomed in this location. I also worry that moving the tree might stress it out even more.
A: It certainly sounds like over-watering to me. It’s easy to check the soil, just push a screwdriver or sharp stick into the gound. If it comes out without anything sticking to it…it’s too dry.if it comes out with some dirt clinging to it its just right…if it comes out muddy…its too wet. Removing the leader will distort growth but will not slow it down.
With the grass turning as well you might have a soil problem. You can send a sample (about two cups) to Aand L labs in Woodland the phone is (209) 529-4080 1311 Woodland ave Modesto Cal. 95351
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Susanna on October 10
Q:I have 2 cottonwood trees that were on the property when I bought the home. They are 2 feet from my patio, and 10 feet from the house. The roots are lifting up my patio, and headed for the house. ( About 4 feet away under the patio. ) I know I need to have the trees removed. My question is, once I have the trees removed, do I have to do anything to keep the roots from still growing? Can I leave the stumps?
A1:I suggest stump grinding after the tree is removed however the tree will sucker in the spring. She can then spray the suckers with 2,4,-D when they are “leafed out” or sprouted or they can kill the stump after its cut by drilling several holes inside and outside the cambial layer in the fresh cut, then add a solution of 2,4,-D, WEED B GONE. The jury is out on this weather the 2,4-D will kill other plants as the roots die and the herbicide is released back into the soil.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
A2: If you use the stump grinder method, the next best is the chemical treatment. Be sure to be very careful about just applying the chemical to the roots. What you can do is make fresh cut on the root and then spray directly to the cut. If done careful, you can keep from contaminating the adjacent area.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Debra on September 18
Q:I wanted to ask what can be done about elm trees who’s roots are lifting the cement. I rent a house and have been here for 8 1/2 yrs. I’ve done and paid for some trimming of the trees as they can have a lot of dead stuff hanging and I water them, but have noticed they are destroying the cement, and am concerned about under the house as they have crept into the water pipes. I love the shade they give, and I’ve noticed my landlord at one time sawed into a root hitting the sidewalk. He can’t do the work anymore so I need help.
A:The tree will continue to left concrete as long as its there. Root pruning can be down but will need a Certified Arborist to assess the situation before making a recommendation.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
From Lindsay on Sept 17
Q: I planted a Peach and Apple tree in my back yard. I didn’t get any fruit for the first 3 years on either tree, and then 2 years ago I got fruit on both trees, but then didn’t get fruit last summer or this summer.
I noticed that when the blossoms came out on the trees this year, we didn’t have any bees yet in the yard, and then we had a cold snap after the blossoms appeared. Could that be what is causing my intermittent fruit? I have also heard that you can assist with pollination by hand- would that help, and how would I go about doing that?
Thank you for your help!
A: Because of the late spring and frost, I would say that the flowers were killed by frost. Hence no fruit. In addition, certain fruit trees like varieties of apple trees, “alternate bear,” meaning one year, if it escapes a frost, will have bumper crop. The following year the fruit production may be small. Hand pollination – I know in areas of China they have had to do that because pollinators have been killed. I don’t think I would recommend this to a homeowner. Perhaps if it were a dwarf tree that would lend itself to hand pollinating, as it is very precarious work. Overall from what I have read, we are not having that big of an issue with pollination in our area. In addition, if a US commercial grower were to do so, hand pollinate, it would look like this: It takes twenty workers working for 10 hours to pollinate a HALF acre of trees. Translated into an US orchard where the workers are paid $9 per hour, it would cost the growers $3,600 in pollination services. This would probably double the cost of apples. Hope this helps.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
From Walter on September 7
Q: I have some trees in the back yard that I believe are in the aspen family. They send out suckers that come up through my lawn and small roots near the surface which I believe are adding to the depletion of my lawn grass. The other culprit being quail which eat the grass on the fringe of the dirt and over the 5 years I have been at this residence have reduced about 1/4 of my lawn to dirt. My sense is the quail eat the grass along the borders and new grass can’t grow due to the difficulty produced by the dense tree roots. Is there a way to manage the roots beyond a massive tearing out of the yard and the roots and putting in new sod? If this is the only remedy how will this impact the health of the trees? The trees also seem to be suffering from some sort of infestation. Any ideas on the common ailments of this species and how to manage? Any thoughts on types of grass that would be impervious to the quail?
A: There is a product called “sucker stopper” available at most nurseries that helps control suckers yet won’t hurt the trees, you could control the suckers with that. Ive never heard of Quail eating grass but if they are there is also a product called “liquid fence” that keeps critters from eating landscaping. Also, deep root feeding will really help keep roots below the surface. The Ross Root Feeder with fertilizer tablets for deciduous trees is a great deal also at most nurseries. Before I would start trying to treat the trees I would get the root feeding going (once a week until October) and make sure the trees get plenty of water. Many varieties begin to show some leaf stress this time of year, and treatments would be a waste of time and money this late.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Niki on August 18
From Dennis on August 29
Q: Hello, I’ve just planted about 60 trees from my local big box stores. I made a lot of effort in using proper soils and preparation before planting the trees. I have shade trees, deciduous trees and some evergreens. I’m concerned that I’m over watering my trees. I live in the Jack’s Valley area north of Genoa and we get a lot of wind. So a drying type climate. I’ve installed drip irrigation in the form of emitter hose with 1 gph emitters every 18 inches. So each tree gets roughly 8 gph of water when the system is running. I’ve got sandy and clay soil, so the ground is rather inconsistent. I’ve read about digging 6 inches down to see how the soil clumps. But doing that for 60 trees every day would be never ending. So can my tree talk to me about its water needs. Can my tree’s leaves tell me what sort of condition they are in? If the leaf closes up or folds together – is that too dry? Or does that mean it is too wet? I get brown edges on older leaves with fresh green ones on new growth. After losing 6 trees that I planted a year ago, I’m rather nervous about messing up the 60 I just planted. These trees are 1 inch to 2 inches in diameter and 6 to 14 feet tall.
A: Yes the leaves will tell you when things are wrong with a tree. The problem with this type of approach is that the problem is normally acute before the leaves begin to present the signs. Also, a steady, reliable supply of water via your drip system is preferable over an erratic system. You don’t have to dig down and make clumps to test soil, just a stick about 16″ long will do. First, the distance you can insert the stick into the soil at the drip line of the tree (in your case about 2′ from the trunk) is going to tell you about how the soil can absorb water, a hard compacted soil will not allow water and air in. Second, as you retract the stick you can tell how moist or dry the soil clinging to it is by direct observation. Ideally, the stick should be able to penetrate about 8′-10″ in and come out with a slight dampness.
We have great info on our website about irrigation. Look into getting a Ross Root Feeder (most places have them in the garden section) or if you would like you can contact me to set up an appointment (free of charge) to look at your trees.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Niki on August 18
Q: Our Japanese Maple has been getting smaller leaves with brown on the edge of its leaves for the last few years. What could be the cause and what can I do to prevent it.
A1: Remember that Japanese Maple must be in almost complete shade to thrive. Also, if the tree is a few years old make sure there are at least 3ea. two gallon per hour emitters set to run for one hour three to four days a week. Be sure no weed and feed chemicals have been applied near the tree. It would be best if I could examine the tree in person and you can have me do that free of charge simply by asking. If you would like that e-mail me and we will set up an appointment.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
A2: It looks like a watering issue especially for this plant. Notice the damage on the leaves. It is occuring at the tips and margins. This plant does best in shade and moist, but not sopping wet soil. Also maples prefer an acid soil. Make certain they continue to irrigate new trees daily and established trees move emitters under the canopy of the tree. Fertilize in after the leaves fall or early spring. This is one plant that will also show iron chlorsis. Maple perform best when their roots are in shade and tree is sheltered from the wind.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
From Ben on August 12
Q: I’m currently trying to get into the tree industry & need a little help. Can you recommend how I can get started in the Truckee area in becoming an arborist?
A: The first thing to do would to become a member of the International Society of Arboriculture. From there you will receive magazines and materials on conferences and education. As a matter of fact, I am teaching Urban Tree Care 1 at TMCC this semester! This would be a wonderful way to get started!
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Ruth on June 20
Q: We have a beautiful Oak in our back yard. It is approximately 15′ x 15′ with a rounded head. It is approximately 10 years old. Which Ross root feed do we use for it? The evergreen or the tree and shrub? We live in Las Vegas. What time of year is best to feed?
Also, we lost two Japanese pine tress this winter but am unable to locate replacements. Any suggestions on where to find them? If not, what other pine will give us that slow growing, abstract look?
A: Use the tree and shrub fertilizer for your Oak. Do it once a month for the rest of this growing season and then in spring, summer and fall next year.
For an interesting evergreen, look at Weeping Blue Atlas Cedar. It has a very different growth pattern you may like.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Mac on June 9
Q: What Ross root fertilizer do you use on dogwoods?
A: The Ross Root Feeder has tablets for evergreens, deciduous and fruit trees. The dogwood is a deciduous tree and that would be the appropriate tablet to use.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Jon on April 4
Q: First off, thank you for providing this “Ask An Arborist” forum.
I have some smaller trees that form a perimeter around an outdoor fountain. A few of the trees have sprouted another small trunk (see enclosed picture) – is this a sucker and should I cut it?
If so, do I need to provide any other protection to the tree to make sure that it does not become infected?
A1: Pines to my knowledge pines do not sucker. It could be seedling that has sprouted near the base of the tree or it is a lower branch that is growing taller due to the lack of lower branches. Overall the tree itself doesn’t look good. I suggest removing the existing tree and planting a different species of pine.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
A2: The lack of branches along the lower trunk will make the trunk prone to sun scald in the future. I would also say that it would best to start over with a better species. We have great conifers in the tree guide.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Shelly on February 3
Q: A new gas line was installed at my house this summer, and some of the roots on my trees were cut. Can the trees be saved? If so, how?
A: Take care to keep the damaged roots moist. Use a the deep root feeder in spring, summer and fall, in addition to a soaker hose about six feet from the trunk, and it should not show any signs of damage.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Deborah on December 21
Q: I had this pear planted in an 8×4 area alongside the front sidewalk to espalier against the wall of the house (with west facing wall) about three years ago. I believe the tree is now about 5-6 years old. I leave very soon for a job in Alaska and so won’t be here to tend the tree. Following last spring’s frost there were very few blossoms and fruit but the tree did very well for two years. It is needing pruning and I am looking for someone who will care for it while I am away from my home. Do you know of anyone competent to prune this for espalier? To avoid fireblight, what is the timing for it’s next pruning? Should it be done about Januaryish? I really appreciate any help you can be. I will return to this home later, and don’t want to ignore this tree’s needs.
A: Michael Janik would be the person I would recommend to prune the tree.
Fire blight, caused by the bacterium Erwinia amylovora, is a common and frequently destructive bacterial disease of pome fruit trees and other related plants. Pear and quince trees are extremely susceptible. Apple, crabapple, and Pyracantha species are also frequently damaged. Fire blight occasionally attacks hawthorn (Crataegus species), Spiraea, Cotoneaster, toyon (Photinia species), juneberry or serviceberry (Amelanchier species), loquat, mountain ash (Sorbus species), and other related plants. Fire blight infections can destroy limbs and even entire shrubs or trees.
MANAGEMENT
Fire blight development is influenced primarily by seasonal weather. When temperatures in the range of 75° to 85°F are accompanied by intermittent rain and hail, conditions are ideal for disease development. The succulent tissue of rapidly growing trees is especially vulnerable. Thus, excess nitrogen fertilization and heavy pruning, which promote such growth, should be avoided. Trees should not be irrigated during bloom. Monitor trees regularly, and promptly remove and destroy fire blight infections. If fire blight has been a problem in the past, apply blossom sprays. Sprays prevent new infections but will not eliminate wood infections; these must be pruned out. In years when weather conditions are very conducive to fire blight development, it may be difficult if not impossible to control the disease.
CHOOSING TOLERANT VARIETIES
Most pear tree varieties, including Asian pears (with the exception of Shinko) and red pear varieties, are very susceptible to fire blight. Varieties of ornamental pear trees that are less susceptible to fire blight are Bradford, Capitol, and Red Spire; Aristocrat is highly susceptible. Among the more susceptible apple varieties are Fuji, Gala, Golden Delicious, Granny Smith, Gravenstein, Jonathan, Mutsu, Pink Lady, and Yellow Newtown. Wherever possible, plant varieties less prone to fire blight damage. Because most infections originate in the flowers, trees that bloom late or throughout the season (rat-tail bloom) often have severe fire blight damage.
REMOVING DISEASED WOOD
Eliminate fire blight infections by pruning out diseased branches. Always cut an infected branch at least 8 to 12 inches below the visible injury or canker. A greater distance below infections may be required on major branches, scaffolds, or trunks in May or June, when blight bacteria are moving rapidly. Ideally, an infected shoot or branch should be removed at its point of attachment, without damaging the branch collar. The appearance of new infections below a pruning cut indicates that the cuts were not made far enough below the infection and the bacteria had already spread past the cutting point. If you cut into a canker or infected wood, disinfect your tool, as described below, to avoid spreading the pathogen.
If a fire blight infection occurs on a trunk or major limb, the wood can often be saved by scraping off the bark down to the cambium layer in infected areas (i.e., removing both the outer and inner bark). When scraping, look for long, narrow infections that may extend beyond the margin of the canker or infection site. If any are detected, remove all discolored tissue plus 6 to 8 inches more beyond the infection. If the limb has been girdled, scraping will not work and the whole limb must be removed.
To avoid spreading bacteria during pruning, dip or spray the pruning tool before each cut with a 10% solution of bleach (one part bleach to nine parts water). Dry and oil tools after use to prevent rust.
CHEMICAL CONTROL
A very weak (about 0.5%) Bordeaux mixture or other copper fungicide applied several times as blossoms open can reduce new infections, but will not eliminate all new infections nor those already existing in wood. The number of applications needed depends on the blooming period. Once blossoms begin to open, make the first application when the average temperature (average of the maximum and minimum temperatures for a 24-hour period) exceeds 60°F. Apply at 4- to 5-day intervals during periods of high humidity and until late bloom is over. For pear trees, this may mean five to twelve applications per season. Copper fungicides may cause a russeting or scarring of the fruit surface. The risk of this damage begins during bloom and increases as fruits enlarge.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
From Anonymous on October 14
Q: I would appreciate your help in identifying this tree. Please tell me everything you know about it including how invasive its roots are. Let me know also if you need more details. Thank you much.
A: Looks like it could be a case of the wrong tree, wrong place. It appears it’s a Scotch Pine. Roots are not necessarily invasive but they can get wide. Roots will only grow where there is oxygen and moisture. I have seen Scotch Pine roots lift asphalt but is only because the soil that it is planted in hard compact clay with ample moisture. This tree can get tall. Under the right conditions this tree can reach a height of 70 to 100 feet. Good news the tree look healthy.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
From Nanette on October 3
Q: Recently my pine trees in the front yard have begun to turn a lite brown in the center. I am concerned because a nearby neighbors tree died and I believe it started this way. I have enclosed pictures for your review and advice. I live off of the Mt. Rose Highway in the slightly higher elevation.
A: This is normal needle drop and it occurs this time of year. May species of pine trees and evergreens will drop their inside needles every 3, 5 and 7 years. The amount of needle drop will also be dependent on the amount of water it received this past season. Remember to add emitters to your trees as they grow and move the drip tubing or add more drip tubing under the canopy of the tree to maintain its health and vigor. Also remember drip emitters are rated as gallon per hour and not minutes. For example if you run your drip system for a 1/2 an hour for a 1 gallon an hour emitter, you are only giving the tree a 1/2 gallon of water, hardly enough for a large tree. Emitters need to be placed around the tree and under the canopy not at the base of the tree. Also probe the soil with screw driver under the canopy of the tree 2 or 3 hours after you water it. If it’s moist and not sopping wet that is probably enough water. If it’s dry and difficult to probe, you may need to add emitters or more time.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
From BW on September 20
Q: I have heard of Winter burn?? Two of my Blue Spruce plants lost their top leader and had to be up rooted. I have heard of something you can spray/apply to prevent winter burn to the tops of pines and other trees? Are there other ways to protect them from freezing temps? I live where it is already 35 degrees at 6:30 am (September 17th). It should hit freezing here real soon, about mid October. Then, we go through a period where the morning freezes and then it’s 75 degrees while we are at work all day. If we water at 5pm, then the trees can freeze as the temps drop overnight. This is pretty frustrating every year!! What do you suggest?
Could you please explain the Winter burn situation and suggest remedies? Also, how often should it should be applied?
Lastly, I know that we are supposed to drench trees before freezing starts, but what about Winter? I usually just let them sit until it is no longer 32 overnight.
A: I suggest winter watering. Mulch the rootball. Winter kill, winter desiccation and southwest damage occurs when plants and the soil, especially evergreens go in to the winter in a dry state. Instead of using anti desiccants, the general rule is water your plants under the canopy of the tree when we haven’t had precipitation for 3 – 4 weeks and when the ground is thawed. Continue to water during the fall even though its cold evergreen continue to transpire, take up water. Again winter burn or winter desiccation occurs when the soil is depleted of water. Also when the sun is at a low angle and we have bright sunny clear skies winter kill often occurs on the south west side of the tree. Hope this helps.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
From Anonymous on September 6
Q: I live in the Sequoia National Forest. South west side of Wofford Heights. My pine trees are getting a fungus of some kind and at least 15 of the 20 pine trees are dying. Its starting to spread to my neighbors, but we are the only ones in town that have it. No one else seems to care. About it, but I believe its going to wipe out the forest. Attached are pictures. I hope you can help.
A1: To me it looks like dwarf mistletoe, Arceuthobium spp. Host are Ponderosa pine, lodgepole pine, western larch, Douglas-fir, western hemlock,
mountain hemlock, rarely western white pine and spruce. Go on line to see if this its dwarf mistletoe, again it looks like it me.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
A2: This is Dwarf Mistletoe. It can be sprayed in the spring with Florel to keep it down. I have severeal clients in the Tahoe Basin that I treat and the product works very well. Send an e-mail to Dale Carlon for more information and advice.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Debby and Tony on September 6
Hi! We have a few questions about tree pruning we hope you can answer. We live in Somersett, and all our landscaping was put in about 4-5 years ago (by someone else — we moved here 3 years ago).
Q1: Our beautiful Flowering Crab apple tree is well leafed out, but too heavy horizontally. Shouldn’t this tree be pruned? When is the best time to reshape it, and how much should we prune back? Is there a specific guideline to follow when pruning?
A1: Crab apple tree can be thinned but overall it looks good. Remove cross branches, suckers and water sprouts. Overall the tree looks healthy. The character of the tree is a small shade tree and spreading branches. Keep in mind if you severely prune the tree you will remove next year blossoms.
Q2: Our Honey Locust in the backyard, planted three years ago, seems to need a little pruning or thinning in the lower right area. What do you think?
A2: First I would remove the stakes that I can see in the photo. Stakes should be removed after one year. Second it appears the lower branches of the tree were removed when it was young which might be why the tree is staked, it has a weak trunk. Removing lower branches for shipping purposes in the nursery is a common practice. If the tree can stand alone, remove the stakes.. If the tree can’t stand alone when you remove the stakes cut the height of the stakes, they should be a cut to the first lower limbs and place them perpendicular to the wind and loosely stake the tree so the top of the tree can move a in the wind. This will allow the tree to develop a strong trunk, trunk taper. Then I would thin the right side a bit pruning back only a few lower branches.
Q3: Does this Scotch Pine look OK to you? It has not grown much since we’ve been here (3 years) and the color looks ‘off’ to me. Any suggestions?
A3: Scotch pine looks fine. Make certain the drip emitters are on the upward side of the slope.. Also make certain you add more emitters to the tree placing them around the drip line and upslope. I would add at least 3 more emitter (2 gallon) up slope of the tree and around the drip line, not at the trunk. This might help. Also because the emitters are rated at gallons per hour and not minutes, check the controller that the drip zone is water by the hour and not minutes. Also check to see if the tree is not planted too deep. A three year old tree should show sign of a root flare near the surface. If the trunk appears straight with no taper, the tree could have been planted too deep. Also if the tree was planted in hole as wide as the rootball, this can stunt a tree. Trees need to be planted in a hole 3 to 5 times as wide as the rootball and as deep.
Q4: I don’t know what this parkway tree is, but it didn’t leaf out well this year. Any suggestions?
A4: Depending on the species and care, and with below normal freezing temperature this year it may have responded to any one of these factors.
Q5: Finally, what’s up with this Currant? It has been beautiful the last three years, but recently looks like it’s dying. What to do??
A5: This plant require copious amounts of water. I can see the drip line is only on one side of the plant. I suggest adding more emitters and mulch around the tree. Add 2 to 3 two gallon emitters around the plant. Then add about 3 to 6 inches of mulch keeping a clearing around the base of the plant. For now, hand water to a depth of 6 to 8 inches all the way around the tree shrub.
Winter watering. Water all plants during the winter if we have not received any precipitation and the ground is thaw. Also I would recommend adding mulch to the planting areas at least 3 to 6 inches. This will insulate the root ball and keep water from evaporating from the soil.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
From Anonymous on August 29
Q: Is birch borer infestation present in this area?
A1: Bronze Birch bores are present here. They attack most stressed birch trees, even River Birch. To prevent bronze birch bores, water the tree more that what is accustomed too and as added protection, apply a systemic insecticide with Imydaclyprid, Merit or a Bayer product with it in it.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
A2: Yes Birch Borers are here. They can be identified by the hole they leave in the trunk. You will notice holes that resemble the letter”D” lying flat side down. you may also see sawdust coming from the holes. They can be treated with systemics, that is insecticides that can be injected into the vascular system of the tree.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Jackie on August 28
Q: I have this tree in my back yard, it has gone through hell and back in 5 short years. First it fell over because the landscaper put too many drips around it 6/ 2 gal. I staked it down took out all the drips and deep root watered it. It grew strong and deep rooted. Then the wind ripped it in half, I duct taped it back together and cut off all the torn branches and put that black tree paint on the exposed parts were I cut the bad limbs. That has been a year ago and it came back and bloomed, but the trunk did not grow back together, so I put screws through the trunk to hold it together, and removed the duct tape. My question, do you think it will survive with the screws in the trunk? It still has all of its leaves and it has been 3 weeks since I did this. I live in the northwest about 5500 elevation.
A: The tree may “survive,” but the real question is, will it ever be strong enough to resist weather damage and pests? Because it takes so long to develop a viable, mature tree, keeping a Charlie Brown tree on life support can be counter-productive. Starting over will likely give you a good tree faster than trying to revive a tree that’s been dealing with some serious setback all of its short life.
The fact that the tree broke off in a wind storm may be an indication that it is the wrong species for that site. Starting over would give you an opportunity to reconsider the kind of tree to plant. A good source is the TMWA Landscape Guide, which details trees and shrubs that thrive in the Truckee Meadows.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Darin Blue, a certified arborist with Los Verdes Arborists
______________________________________________________
From Judit on June 16
Q: We have a majestic, healthy looking silver birch that we love. Is it necessary to deep root feed it to keep it healthy? If so, how and what do we do?
A: Deep root feeding is a must in our soils. We are in clay in most areas and the water does not get down to where roots are. As a result, they come up close to the surface and cause problems with grass, concrete and other improvements. The Birches are trees that are native to river banks are require even more water to stay healthy. The Ross Root Feeder is a great deep watering tool. You can pick up the fertilizer tablets that go with it and use it three times a year: spring, summer and fall. Use the fertilizer tablets for deciduous trees on the Birch. They also have tablets for evergreen and fruit trees – all your trees will benefit from root feeding.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From MaryAnn on June 2
Q: Last fall I planted many, many trees and shrubs. I tried to water as much as I could before the first snow. They seemed to survive the winter snow, but not that big wind storm that we had a month or so ago. I haven’t been able to get out and water as much as I should have. I have several arborvitaes with needles/leaves that are dried out. If the wood of the trees are still green, will they come back? What can I do to help?
A: This is winter burn, which many of the conifers suffered from this year. It is not usually deadly but does need some attention. The best treatment would be to do some additional watering and perhaps a nitrogen based fertilizer to get some green going. Any slow-release complete fertilizer would do, similar to what you would use on your lawn in spring. Look for the numbers on the bag 20-10-10, and be sure to not get anything with weed killer in it.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From BW in Reno on May 23
Q: Would the recent freezes affect newly planted pines, or if the trees show signs of a downfall is it regular shock from transplanting? Also, should we water newly planted trees when it is 50 degrees out during the day even though there are slightly freezing temperatures at night? It’s hard to follow the “Peavine Rule” when temperatures are nearly 80 degrees in mid May!
A: At first it does seem like transplant shock … however, if the tree had been really soaked it could freeze a little … but should not be a problem. Yes, start watering now … as we all know, things will turn hot quickly and having the soil moist to start with prevents summer die-back.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Billy in Reno on May 21
Q: My entire front yard–and I live on a corner–was sheet mulched with whole tree woodchips a year ago. The soil is like the Central Valley. The worms fall through my fingers when I pick up a handful. Can woodchips go right up to the trunk or do they need to clear a 3-6″ diameter?
A: You should keep the mulch back about six inches. Excess moisture can build up and cause crown rot. Also invasive insects can attack from the mulch.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Marlene in Reno on May 10
Q: HELP! I have a question about my Japanese Maple Tree. Just noticed it has a sheen and sticky surface all over it and on the ground as well. Tiny black bugs on the leaves and flying around. The photos are from the leaf top and bottom. I am worried that this is a pest or disease and do not want to loose the tree. Any advice that the experts can give me?
A: Those are aphids…there are several products out there that will combat them. The most common and effective application types of Aphid pesticide are insect growth regulators (IGRs). Insecticidial soaps, oils ang pyretherins, Azatin, Enstar 2, Neemasad and Preclude are all effective. Next year…spray the tree with dish soap and water early in the season to prevent thier arrival.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From BW in Red Rock on May 7
Q: I live out on 10 acres in Red Rock, a newer property. We have planted 10 trees in four years. Seven have lived, three died. I have concluded the reasons the three died. Planted to near sage concentrations and over watering.
The soil here does not drain well! It is an ancient, dry lake bed and pure silt with most likely a high pH and low nutrients. There are such heavy beds of hardpan that feel like concrete to break through. A nursery told me to watch the watering. I did and have been all through that. My process for watering is simple: Very little and not very often.
The trees that died: two Arborvitae, one Blue Spruce. Those that are still living: five Colorado Blue Spruce, two Austrian Pines. The Spruces are green, not dying, planted well as outlined on your checklists and within a 150-foot drip system. They stay green, and grew quite well last year. However, in 2 years the Spruces have achieved very little height if any at all. They seemed to have just grown out and gotten fuller within a certain height and diameter. The Austrian Pines are doing the best and achieving height and are green and healthy looking all year round! Nothing special was done with them and they are flourishing under the same conditions as the Spruces.
I am assuming two things: The roots are hitting hardpan and are not able to penetrate. The soil is nutrient lacking and not draining well at all. We are about to plant four Alberta Spruce trees that are taller and established! Our first pruning of the Spruces happened for the first time this year.
Any hints? I know something works because I have seen every kind of tree out here 15 feet tall and doing well. I have seen Blue Spruce, Austrians, Aspens, Poplar, Dogwood and others. I would experiment with other trees that I heard do really well, but the wife wants ALL pines and I have stopped trying fight her!
Thanks for any suggestions you can give!
A1: Have the pH of the soil tested as well as the salt concentration, electrical conductivity and a sodium SAR (Sodium Adsorption rate or ESP, or exchangeable sodium percentage). We can conclude that the soil is low in nutrients. If the soil does not drain well, it may be a sodium issue. If that’s the case add organic material to all new plantings. Plant high and add 25 or 35 percent organic material to the backfill soil and mix thoroughly. Blue Spruce need fast well drained soil and acid soil as well. They grow as native on the slopes of the Colorado Rockies. When digging a planting hole, make it five times as wide as the rootball, in this case, due to poor drainage, plant high. The top of the rootball should be about one inch above the soil grade or. Then cover the rootball with a thin layer of soil of then apply about three inches of mulch on top of the rootball of the tree, keeping a clearing of about two to three inches around the base of the tree. If the spruce tress continue to decline, choose species that can tolerate high salts in the that soil and poor drainage. Check the neighborhood to see what’s growing. I would stay away from dwarf Albertas unless they are protected and have good drainage. Also I don’t think the roots hit the hard pan. Ornamental plants or potted plant roots grow laterally not vertically. I suggest a Western Juniper or Arizona cypress. If you need additional info, call the Cooperative Extension office at 784-4848.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
A2: Most definitely the soils here are not desirable. That is why mulch is a much needed commodity when planting any vegetation. Also, digging the planting pit correctly or creating a berm will help with some of the drainage issues. As for the nutrient content, once again our soil has none, or very little and usually competes with the soil and the pH. Using a root feeder would be the best solution, with the Ross system. There are specific formulations of fertilizer for each specific group of trees and shrubs that you can purchase to use in your Ross Feeder.
This Ask an Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Pamela Bedard, a certified arborist with City of Reno.
A3: If you are going all conifer, native species will be the easiest to maintain. Maybe Jeffrey or Washoe Pine, more likely Pinon Pine and native Juniper. Wood Chip mulch on the surface will improve nutrient cycling and slow down water evaporation from the ground. Mycorrhizal Fertilizer can improve root efficiency, making a big difference given poor soils. Small trees that grow up on the site responding to the gusty winds in the region will have a better chance than large trees grown in a nursery. Watering very little and not very often is probably allowing the soil to get dry enough to separate from the roots. Every time that occurs the fine roots become parched and root uptake is compromised.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Darin Blue, a certified arborist with Los Verdes Arborists
______________________________________________________
From Billy in Reno on May 5
Q: I soaked and gently worked with the root ball of my plane tree for a long time to get the roots untangled and spread out in its giant hole of a new home. It has a really great shape and I did some minor pruning and it’s perfect. Should I really prune it back more?
A: Perfect is good enough. The last thing a newly transplanted tree needs is to be pruned severely. Better to let it settle in for 4-5 years.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Darin Blue, a certified arborist with Los Verdes Arborists
______________________________________________________
From Alison in Reno on May 3
Q: We have a curling cedar whose southern exposed branches have turned grey/brown, while the north sides remain the green. Is it an issue of not enough water, too much sun (although you wouldn’t know it from this spring)? We planted in the fall. The branches are still pliable, just discolored. We also have a spruce pine whose top has just peeled away needles, so it looks rather like a Charlie brown tree. The rest of the branches down the body of the tree are fine.
What’s wrong with my trees?
A: This is winter burn. A situation in which leaves of Cedars are exposed to very cold winds and does not mean the tree is dead. That is why the leaves are still pliable. However, do check the drip system for proper watering. You should have four two-gallon per hour emitters located at the drip line of the tree. Set the timer to run on your watering days, but on a different watering cycle than turf. Be sure that drip runs for at least an hour a day – if you find there is runoff due to clay or compacted soils, water 30 minutes in the morning and 30 minutes in the afternoon or evening. Please refer to our watering page for more details. If a large section of the Spruce top is dead it will not come back, nor will it ever look right. You may want to remove it and replace it and start over.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From George in Southwest Reno on Apr. 30
Q: Day before yesterday’s 70 – 90 mph winds partially uprooted one of my 30 – 40 pine trees. While it currently is on the ground, a major portion of the root ball and the side that is down on the ground remains in tack and many of the smaller roots remain covered by dirt. I have it currently covered with tarp and dirt in hopes that it might be saved. Do you think we can save and upright it?
A1: If you have been keeping that rootball moist and covered, I would say that the tree has a chance. You will need to have it pulled to the upright and staked in at least two points with strong anchoring. When you do get it back up place some good topsoil (triple mix would be best) over the roots and water it in. As you water you will have to add soil to fill the voids between roots. The objective is to have no air pockets around the roots. The just keep it wet. Do not fertilize for at least two months, as any earlier will worsen the shock it will already endure. Steady and reliable water will be the key for that tree. Four two-gallon emitters three feet from the trunk, set for one hour three times a week would be right. If you intend on hiring the work out be sure and seek out an International Society of Arboriculture certified arborist. You can find them at the ISA website.
This Ask An Arborist question is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
A2: If you have to remove the tree with the amount of root damage, I would suggest removing the tree and replant with a different species. It looks like the tree might have blown over because its roots were shallow – spruce trees tend to be shallow rooted. I suggest planting a deeper root evergreen tree and use a natural mulch such as bark chips. I recommend applying a 3” layer of bark chips or shredded bark on top of the soil as your weed barrier. Keep a 3” to 6” clearing around the base of the tree to avoid the unwanted pest, meadow voles from chewing at the base of a young tree.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.
______________________________________________________
From Dick and Maralyn in Incline Village on Apr. 19
Q: We have several large Ponderosa/Jeffrey pines that have dropped large volumes of green needles throughout the winter. What is wrong?
A: It depends on where the needles are dropping from. If they are coming from the interior, it’s normal. If it’s coming from the ends of branches, it should be addressed. If you see holes in the trunk with sap oozing out, the tree has borers. This can be treated with Merit – either with a soil drench or a certified arborist can do injections.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Steve in Wisconsin on Mar. 22
Q: I have a pin oak tree that was planted in the fall of 2008. Last year the tree had poor vigor except, about 8 inches from the bottom, it shot out new branches that grew about a foot. My problem is the main stem seems so weak, it always wants to grow “bent over.” The tree is about 6 ft with about 3/4” caliper. At about 3 foot, the tree leans to the North at about a 75 degree angle. I have been fighting this problem all last year and now coming through the winter I have this. This winter I did prune off the lower branches except 1 that was growing upright. My question is should I just give up on the main stem and cut it back to the lower branch and let that one become the leader?
A: The problem with raising a new tree from a sprout off an old trunk is the way in which it is attached to the trunk. These new sprouts arise from buds located just under the bark of the original tree. A normal branch is attached deep within the tree allowing it to build width at the base as it grows, giving it the strength to handle the weight. These epicormic sprouts will break when they get large. Although I hate telling people to remove trees, this is probably your best bet as your tree will never be “right.” Pin Oak is a great tree for your area and I would try these again. Click here for more planting instructions.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Tony in Sparks on Mar. 9
Q: Is it possible to plant and have a fig tree in this area?
A: Unfortunately, we are in a zone 5-6 with low temperatures at zero to -15 degrees. Fig trees are zone 10 trees that prefer lows of about 35 degrees. It would just get too cold here for it. However, you could try a dwarf variety; keep it in a pot so you can move it inside when it gets too cold.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Caitlin in Sparks on Mar. 8
Q: My council have employed a single external arborist to assess a row of figs which in the wild would be less than halfway through their lifespan. He used QTRA. It seems all risk assessment methods are open to argument. Do you have a favourite one?
A: The best resource for hazard tree evaluation is at the ISA Web site. You can download the hazard tree evaluation form from there as well as order the book “recognizing tree hazards” by Clark and Matheney. In any case be sure to use an ISA Certified Arborist, that has some experience at evaluations.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Laurel in Hidden Vally on Mar. 7
Q: We have a 25-year-old blue spruce next to our front lawn. This winter I’ve noticed a lot of branch tips on the ground around it, something I’ve never noticed much of before. At first I thought it was from a wind storm, but there are lot of them and there seem to be more every time I look. Should I worry? What will the branches that have lost their tips do?
A: A certain amount of shedding is to be expected this time of year, particularly with the amount of water we have received this year. However, a tree of that age may be in need of additional fertilization. I would recommend using the Ross Root Feeder with the fertilizer for evergreen trees in spring, summer and fall. Watch the branches that the tips have fallen off of for dead needles, this may be a sign of other problems. Also, check the trunk for holes and running sap, a sign of borers.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Pearl in Stead on Mar. 4
Q: I love the silk tree, A. julibrissin. Will it grow here well? We had a Wallus that died. We have a deck in our backyard (west) and it has a hole in it for the tree. The deck is about 1 1/2 feet off the ground, so there is air circulation. About two feet away, across a gravel walkway are rose bushes on a sprinkler system. Will any of this be bad for that type of tree? I like the dappled shade. Any other kind if the silk tree is not good here? We have a lot of wind during the summer. We live on a hill in Stead.
A: The Silk tree works in zones 6b through 9b (click here for more information on hardy zones). It can only tolerate temperatures down to 0 degrees Fahrenheit. As you know, we get colder than that very often during the winter. A tree that is very similar that does work here is called “tree of heaven,” or Ailanthus altissima. It originates in China as well and has similar leaves, but it is tolerant of any soil, and will work in part shade to full sun. In your high wind conditions you may have to stake it for a season. It does not like to be too wet, but if the rose bushes are doing well on the existing system it should do well. I would call ahead to the local nurseries for availablity, you may have to have it ordered, but most nurseries will be happy to do that.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Yvette in southwest Reno on Feb. 9
Q: The roots of my large oak tree are exposed, like the ground is shrinking around it. Is this harmful? What should I do?
A: You can raise the soil, but be sure not to put soil too high up the trunk. Install six two-gallon per hour emitters along the dripline and this will help keep the soil from receding. Soil should be no higher than where the roots and trunk meet. You should also be sure to deep root feed large trees like this, to ensure water is getting to the roots.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Anonymous in southwest Reno on Feb. 3
Q: My cherry tree seems sick. It has dead branches with sap leaking from them. Is it infested? Can it be saved?
A: That sounds like it may be infested with aphids, which is common in cherry trees. Deep root feeding would be very helpful in the spring, summer and fall. Dead branches should be removed in the spring. Click here for more information on pruning. Spray the remaining branches with a dormant oil to prevent aphid infestation in the future.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Sally in Lemon Valley on Jan. 20:
Q: My tree’s roots are protruding through the ground. Is this bad for the tree and can I stop it?
A: It can be bad for your trees because the roots are now exposed to the sun and scald where they normally wouldn’t be. To help redirect your roots back into the ground, use a root feeder in the spring, summer and fall. In addition to getting nutrients directly to the roots, this can help to aerate and break up the soil, creating an easier path downward for the tree’s roots.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Milan and Monica in Reno on Jan. 2:
Q: We’d like to plant our Christmas tree in our yard, to replace a sickly pine with dying roots. How do we do that?
A: Similar to transplanting a tree, when planting a container tree like Christmas trees, be sure to plant it so that soil level on root ball is level with the turf. Break up the surrounding soil to promote root growth and fill the hole with water to eliminate air pockets. For more information on planting, check out our Tree Topic paper.
This Ask an Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.
______________________________________________________
From Billy in Reno on Nov. 22:
Q: My favorite tree in the world is a Chinese elm. I see a few mature ones around town like over on Plumb, but not many. Are they good to grow here?
A: The Chinese elm isn’t the best tree for the area, as this tree does better in warmer climates where it tends to keep it leaves all season. We have just a few Chinese elms around, which is often confused with the Siberian elm. This species however, is slated for tree list removal and shouldn’t be planted here due to elm leaf beetle problems and super invasive root systems. American elm is prohibited from planting in the public right-of-way for the same reasons as Siberian Elm. The closest alternative on our tree list is Common hackberry. It has a similar vase shape, but does not get as tall as elms in our area. Hackberry is also very drought tolerant.
This Ask an Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Steve Churchillo, a certified arborist with City of Reno.
Do you think you need to hire a certified arborist? Click here for a list of our partner arborists.
First, I live out on 10 acres in Red Rock, newer property. We have planted 10 trees in 4 years. 7 have lived, 3 died. I have concluded the reasons the three died. Planted to near sage concentrations and over watering.
Second, the soil here DOES NOT DRAIN WELL!! It is ancient, dry lake bed and pure silt with most likely high PH and low nutrients. There are such heavy beds of hardpan as well that feel like concrete to break through. Moana Nursery told me to watch the watering. I did and have been all through that. My process for watering is simple: Very little and not very often.
The trees: Those that died: 2 Arborvitae, 1 Blue Spruce. Those that are still living: 5 Colorado Blue Spruce, 2 Austrian Pines. The Spruces are green, not dying, planted well as outlined on your checklists, and within a 150-foot drip system. They stay green, and grew quite well last year. However, in 2 years the Spruces have achieved very little height if any at all. They seemed to have just grown out and gotten fuller within a certain height and diameter. The Austrian Pines are doing the best and achieving height and are green and healthy looking all year round! Nothing special was done with them and they are flourishing under the same conditions as the Spruces.
I am assuming two things: The roots are hitting hardpan and are not able to penetrate. The soil is nutrient lacking and not draining well at all. We are about to plant 4 Alberta Spruce trees that are taller and established! Our first pruning of the Spruces happened for the first time this year.
Any hints? I know something works because I have seen every kind of tree out here 15 feet tall and doing well. I have seen Blue Spruce, Austrians, Aspens, Poplar, Dogwood, and others. I would experiment with other trees that I heard do really well, but the wife wants ALL pines and I have stopped trying fight her!
Thanks for any suggestions you can give!